Chronicles of a Pseudo Stylist

Fashion and Style combined with Polyvore sets

Digital Coverage of MFW Fall/Winter 2015-16 Day 7: Mila Schön

At Mila Schön, it was all about the late ’60s through the mid-late ’70s and early ’80s, though it was through a minimalist lens. To put it succinctly, it was like a Bauhaus version of the late ’60s through the mid-late ’70s and early ’80s, it was just without the loud prints and color combinations that typically accommodated the era. It is not a bad thing overall, but I just had the feeling there should’ve been more of an effort of doing a twist on minimalism that didn’t involve exaggerated, baggy silhouettes. In spite of the minimalist take of the 1.5-2 decades I mentioned, I was impressed with the designer’s fearlessness when it came to color. There appeared to be an abundance of jewel-tone colors, which were evenly tempered with black, white, or gray in some looks.

The color palette, which again I was impressed at how broad it was in regards to the Bauhausian-minimalist take of the late ’60s-mid/late ’70s and early ’80s in this collection, consisted of black, white, silver, gray, dark blue-gray, brown, forest green, royal blue, yellow, teal green, and eggplant purple. However, the colors were used judiciously towards the latter part of the collection while most of the collection used minimal color, with emphasis going towards black, white, silver, and gray. Nonetheless, I liked the designer’s use of color for this season’s collection. The only thing about that is that I wished the designer didn’t have to wait towards the latter part of the collection to utilize color. Instead, I would’ve loved to see the use of color throughout the collection, unless the designer intended it to be done this way. Almost as if it was a reverse grombreint(a portmanteau, which I “cleverly” made up, of gradient and ombre), only in watching the runway show, it would appear that it isn’t that way completely.

Models sauntered their way down the runway with their hair straight, slicked, and tied back in a low slung ponytail. In spite of the simple hairdo, the models also sported little, if any makeup, with the standout look consisting of rosy cheeks. Looks were constructed with two stand-out fabrics/skins; semi-sheer fabrics and leather. Ponchos and capelets were dominant, while one capelet was actually part of a coat. Thus, this one piece was a capelet/coat, however, said capelet/coat stood out to me the most because of the hood and how it was constructed. When that piece made its way down the runway, I was half-expecting Grace Jones herself to appear when the hood was lifted. The hood on that specific look reminded me of something model/cult-icon Grace Jones would wear during the late ’70s-early ’80s.

Culottes and mini-wrap skirt(skort?) were seen, crop tops and blazers are still in, and a menswear-inspired touch to some looks were eye-catching. Some pieces that caught my eye were a leather a-line skirt and a blouse with semi-sheer puff sleeves, it’s almost as if the model herself walked off of the set of “Hell’s Belles”. Earlier in the show, models were sporting what appeared to me were thigh-high leather leg-warmers. What came as a surprise to me were the use of abstract prints I saw in various looks, it wasn’t as minimalist as I was thinking it would turn out to be. Good on the designer, good on him. One coat came out in a zig-zag print, masterfully paired with monochromatically colored pieces, enabling the coat to standout boldly. Some looks stood out without any assistance from bold/or abstract prints or layering of separates monochromatically, the look or piece itself stood out on its own.

To further illustrate my point, there were three distinct looks that stood out on their own, effortlessly. The first one, and this was the one that I said reminded me of the mod late 1960s-early 1970s, was a drop waisted polo dress. I’m not sure of the type of fabric used in the overall look, but it appeared to be a poly-cotton blend. Once again, I could be wrong, primarily because I’ve referenced the fabrics used in most clothing around the time I previously mentioned in the 2nd sentence of this paragraph. The second look revealed a model wearing a pair of cropped leg overalls, not in denim, but cotton or a least a lightweight fabric based on how the bib area hung on the model. The final look was a variation on the overall, actually something that we in the States called a jumper(an overall style dress or a sleeveless shift type dress that can be layered over a top).

However, one thing that bothered me throughout the entire runway show was the silhouettes on some of the looks. The silhouettes appeared to be poorly regurgitated versions of the minimalism that I saw on every runway last Spring, when normcore was actually considered to be a thing. Thankfully it didn’t last long, however the dreadful silhouettes that I associated with that unfortunate season appear to have refused to leave without first fighting against that rapid change. One such silhouette was seen on a jacket that appeared to have the structure of a large bell that somehow  forgot to load on to the tractor trailer that would take them to the belfry to stay forever for until said belfry was demolished. It was so bulky and exaggerated that I was immediately reminded of an old Donald Duck cartoon I saw when NBC aired Mickey’s Christmas Carol in late 1986. The cartoon was called “Donald’s Snow Fight” (1942), and at the beginning of the cartoon Donald sees that it’s cold and it has snowed at some point.

Therefore, he rushes upstairs to get his winter gear on, and lo and behold, he wears this bell-shaped winter coat that’s apparently wide enough to limit his movement to a slow waddle. Furthermore, that silhouette/shape was likely enhanced by layering. That was the one thing that just got to me somehow, if I was impressed, it likely had to do with the manipulation of the fabric used in the construction of the coat. Yet I was also annoyed because of it as well, then again, if I had the ability to manipulate fabric and successfully execute said manipulation, I’d have done it. Hell, I’d still do it in spite of my lacking ability to manipulate fabric and successfully execute it because I really love a challenge. I love challenge, that’s all I can say.

In closing, I liked the collection that made its way down the catwalk. I was primarily drawn to the looks towards the end of the show. I would like the designer to try to step a little outside of his comfort zone.


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