Chronicles of a Pseudo Stylist

Fashion and Style combined with Polyvore sets

Digital Coverage of PFW Fall/Winter 2015-16 Day 1: Jacquemus

If the saying “Life imitates art,” had to have a photograph of a fashion designer who most embraces this saying to the highest degree, then Jacquemus would fit the bill and be the leading photograph placed next to the saying. In my eyes, this is most definitely not a bad thing, it’s actually an advantage. The latest collection for Fall/Winter 2015-16 proves just that. While it’s clear that not everyone would be impressed by the collection, whether it be the way the clothes were made and how they fit on the runway models or even the artistic approach to the collection, I was one who was impressed by the show overall.

Models descended the runway barefoot, while the looks they sported were in black, white, red, olive green, navy blue, brown, tan, yellow, sky blue, and orange. Some models even sported what appears to be fencing masks that obscured their faces. Uniqueness was king in this runway show, as was a trompe l’oeil effect to some of the looks. As abstract as it may appear, Jacquemus clearly knows how to make it work so it all comes together in one sublimely artistic collection. A sublimely artistic collection wherein each look manages to stand out on its own merit, free of any accessories if not at least one or two to complete a look.

 The hemlines varied in some looks ranging from regular to jagged, while one look sported a steep diagonal hem.  The element of pop art was prominent in one look, which featured a rather Mondrian-esque piecing together of different fabrics. This was seen in other looks as well. The pants in one look featured a low-rise, jagged edge waist with flared legs. Don’t be surprised if you see a mix of flared leg and cigarette leg pants in the next few seasons, hopefully this time around designers will learn to embrace variety whether the pants are bell bottoms or skinny leg. One dominant type of pant leg gets boring after half a decade of popularity. 

 The standout amongst the pants seen in the collection had to be the one legged pants, which had the same concept as far as a one shoulder top is concerned; one part of the body was covered, while the other part was exposed. This type of pant might not become as widespread as many dread, but it could be a signature Jacquemus piece. This type of pant could be wearable as beachwear or some functionally artistic conservative one-piece swimwear. The exposed leg could even be attachable/detachable as one wants. This might even work as swimwear in some countries, but I better quit while I’m ahead. If I keep going on about this possibility, the more and more likely this will become full of verbal diarrhea. 😁

  I can’t deny that the line lacked whimsy because, well, it didn’t. Quite a few were whimsical, such as the trompé l’oeil pieces in a few looks that were so stunning they practically rendered me speechless. When speechlessness is my first reaction upon having succeeded in attracting my attention, well consider that type of reaction to be a good one. They’re just indescribable, words alone cannot be used at all. You just have to click on the link to the collection I leave after I finish the review.

  In addition to the stunningly indescribable pieces having whimsy, a pair of pants in one look gave a lot of whimsy. This pair of pants had a loose, yet exaggerated large waist. The waistband curved out, but still managed to fit well. The whimsy would wear off when I would see a look sporting a baggy silhouette. You can be minimalist, or at least put up that front while still making clothes that were form fitting. That’s practically the only thing I liked about the minimalist aesthete when it came to fashion, it wasn’t about a baggy silhouette only. 

   I love the fact  that he kept with the off the shoulder neckline. I love off the shoulder necklines. It was seen in a dress, but primarily as a top in various looks. Off the shoulder necklines are considered to be a staple in my wardrobe along with crop tops. Hopefully they’ll never go out of style again. For those shy about wearing either one, you can change it up to fit your comfort zone. You can be as revealing or conservative as you wish. 

  All in all, I loved this collection! I love the surrealist, Dali-esque approach brought forth. I even loved the bohemian beatnik sensibility in the overall collection. A mod minimalist Schiaparelli aesthete which I loved. This is a big deal if you impress a mere reviewer who abhores minimalism. Well done, Jacquemus, job well done.

To view the collection click here: Jacquemus Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2015 Paris


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This entry was posted on March 3, 2015 by in Fashion, Fashion Week, Luxury, Paris Fashion Week.

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